Pickles and Relishes

Pickles and Relishes

Pickling is one of the oldest known methods of preserving food, dating back to Biblical times; the Chinese are credited with inventing the process. Pickling does not just refer to processing cucumbers. A pickle or pickled product is any food (fruit, vegetable, or meat) that is fermented in brine (salt) or packed in vinegar to aid preservation.

There are four distinct kinds of pickled products. The varieties can be classified by ingredients and method of preparation.

Brined dill pickles and sauerkraut – fermented or cured (aged) for approximately six weeks. These are the old-fashioned, traditional pickles where the salt encourages the fermentation or the growth of natural “good” bacteria on the food which in turn produce lactic acid. It is the lactic acid that raises the acidity of the food so that it prevents the growth of any “bad” bacteria that normally causes food to spoil while it is curing. Any vegetable can be cured in a brine: cabbage, broccoli, green or yellow beans, cucumbers, cauliflower, onions, green tomatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, and carrots.
Fresh pack or quick-process pickles – are not fermented; some are brined several hours or overnight, then drained and covered with vinegar and seasonings. Examples include refrigerator dill pickles, sweet gherkins, and dilled green beans.
Relishes – are made from chopped fruits and/or vegetables that are cooked with seasonings and vinegar. They may be hot and spicy or sweet and spicy. Examples include piccalilli, horseradish, chutneys, corn relish, catsup, and Pennsylvania Dutch chow chow.
Fruit pickles – are usually prepared from whole fruits that are heated in a spicy, sweet-sour syrup. Pears, peaches, and watermelon rind are a few examples.

Pickling Equipment
The basic equipment used for pickling is similar to other types of canning. However, there are some differences:

Utensils made of zinc, iron, brass, copper, or galvanized metal should not be used. The metal may react with acids or salts and cause undesirable color and taste changes in the pickles or make pickles unfit to eat. Likewise, enamelware with cracks or chips should not be used.
For fresh-pack pickling (with vinegar as the pickling ingredient), almost any large container made of stainless steel, glassware, or unchipped enamelware can be used.
For fermenting and brining, a crock or stone jar, an unchipped enamel-lined pan, a glass jar, a bowl, or a casserole can be used for small quantities. Kegs and barrels (made of hardwood and either enamel, glass, or paraffin lined) can be used for larger quantities. The container used must be fitted with a flat dish to fit inside and cover the food in the brine. A weight is necessary to hold the dish down and to keep the foods below the surface of the brine. A glass jar filled with water and closed with a cap makes a good weight.

Processing
Many older recipes call for pickles to be packed into jars and sealed without processing. This method is no longer recommended because microorganisms may enter the food when it is being transferred from the pickling container to the jar; processing destroys them.

Pickles should be canned in a boiling water bath since they are a high-acid food. Processing times and procedures vary according to food acidity and the size of the food pieces. One processing procedure for fermented cucumbers and fresh-pack dills is slightly different from the usual boiling water bath method: start counting the processing time as soon as the filled jars are placed in boiling water. This reduces the development of a cooked flavor and loss of crispness. Consult the USDA’s Complete Guide to Home Canning for detailed information on canning brine pickles and as a source of recipes.

Words of Caution
The level of acidity in a pickled product is as important to its safety as it is to taste and texture.

Do not alter vinegar, food, or water proportions in a recipe or use a vinegar with unknown acidity.
There must be a minimum, uniform, level of acid throughout the mixed product to prevent the growth of botulinum bacteria.
Use only recipes with tested proportions of ingredients.

Pickles with Reduced Salt Content
Fresh-pack pickles may be prepared safely with reduced or no salt; they are acidified quickly with vinegar. However, their quality may be noticeably lower; texture and flavor may be slightly, but noticeably, different.

The salt used in making brine pickles and fermented sauerkraut not only provides characteristic flavor but also is vital to safety and texture. The function of salt in fermented foods is to encourage the growth of desirable bacteria while at the same time inhibit the growth of others. Do not attempt to make fermented pickles or sauerkraut by cutting back on the salt required.

Key ingredients in pickling
Ingredient	Why used
Salt	Acts as a preservative by encouraging the growth of desirable bacteria (and inhibiting undesirable bacteria) which in turn produce lactic acid, a preservative. Helps draw juices and sugar from the produce to make a brine. Adds flavor and crispness.
Vinegar	Gives pickles a tart taste. Acts as a preservative due to the acidity of vinegar.
Sugar	Sweetens taste; counteracts vinegar.
Spices/Herbs	Adds flavor
Water	Makes liquid portion of brine.
Alum*	Improves pickle firmness for fermented pickles; does not improvde firmness of quick-process pickles.
Lime**	Improves pickle firmness.
* According to the USDA, alum may be safely used to firm fermented pickles, but it is regarded as unnecessary.
** The calcium in lime improves pickle firmness. Food grade lime may be used as a lime-water solution for soaking fresh cucumbers 12 to 24 hours before pickling them. Excess lime absorbed by the cucumbers must be removed to make safe pickles. To remove excess lime, drain the lime-water solution, rinse, and resoak the cucumbers in fresh water for one hour. Repeat the rinsing and soaking steps two more times.

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Trouble-shooting pickles
Note: These pickles are safe to eat even though they may not look too good.
This happened::	Because of this:
Shriveled pickles	Vinegar or salt solution too strong. Overcooking or overprocessing.
Hollow pickles	Poory developed cucumbers. Cucumbers too ripe. Cucumbers held too long before pickling. Fermentation too rapid. Brine too strong or too weak during fermentation.
Dark pickles	Too much spice, including iodized salt. Overcooking. Water too hard. Iron utensils used. Cicer vinegar used.
Note: Do not eat soft or slippery pickles. This condition indicates that microbial activity did not stop. One of the following oculd have ahppened to affect the processing: Used too little salt or acid. Failed to cover cucumbers with brine during fermentation. Allowed scum to scatter through the brine during fermentation.n Processed pickles for too short or too long a time. Did not seal the jar airtight. Used moldy garlic or spices. Failed to remove blossoms form cucumbers before fermentation.

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Tips for Successful Pickling

Select fresh, firm, uniform-sized fruits or vegetables, free of spoilage; gathered no more than 24 hours before pickling. Keep refrigerated until ready to use. Some recipes may call for slightly under-ripe produce, such as pears, peaches, and green tomatoes. Do not use waxed cucumbers since the brine cannot penetrate wax.
Wash produce thoroughly in cold water; scrub with a brush, if possible, to remove clinging soil particles that may contain microorganisms.
Remove the blossom end of cucumbers, since they contain enzymes, fungi, or yeast which could soften the cucumbers during fermentation; cut off 1/16 inch from the blossom end.
Measure ingredients carefully; proportions of sugar, salt, vinegar, and spice are critically important to ensure quality and safety.
Use canning or pickling salt. If table salt is used, additives (non-caking material) may make the brine cloudy. Iodized salt should not be used; the iodine may darken pickles. Do not use sea salt, rock salt, or kosher salt.
Use white granulated sugar unless the recipe calls for another sweetener Brown sugar will darken the product. Substituting corn syrup and honey may not produce desirable flavors unless they are called for in a reliable recipe.
Use white distilled and cider vinegars of 5% acidity; white is preferred when a light color is desirable, such as with fruits and cauliflower. Cider vinegar has a mellow acid taste, but it may darken white or light-colored fruits and vegetables. Do not dilute the vinegar. If a less sour product is preferred, add sugar rather than decrease vinegar because otherwise the preservative balance will be upset.
Use only tested recipes for reduced sodium and fresh pack pickles.
Use whole, fresh spices or herbs; dry, ground herbs and spices tend to darken pickles and may cloud the pickling mixture. Tie them in a cheesecloth or muslin bag (spice bag) and remove before pickles are packed.
Use soft water for the best-looking pickles. Iron or sulfur in hard water can darken pickles; calcium and other salts can interfere with the fermentation process. Bottled water (distilled) may be a better choice if you live in an area of hard water. If soft tap water is not available, water can be softened by boiling it for 15 minutes and letting it stand for 24 hours. A scum will appear on the top of the water; carefully skim scum off. Then ladle the water from the container without disturbing the sediment on the bottom. Add one tablespoon of vinegar per gallon of boiled water before using.